The Waterloo Battlefield is a powerful reminder of a turning point in history, where in a small corner of Belgium, south of Brussels, Napoleon Bonaparte’s imperial dream was crushed and a Swedish quartet found the title for a song that would change pop music forever.

On 18 June 1815 – an epic battle happened here: Napoleon’s French army looking for total European domination vs the Duke of Wellington and his Allied forces, whose aim was to bring an end the Napoleonic Wars and the two decades of conflict that had begun with the French Revolution.

We arrived at the site very early. Around 8.30am – the visitors centre was still closed and the car park was empty, so we decided to walk some of the battlefield trail which is open to the public. At that time of the morning the battlefield trail is also frequented by with several local dog walkers.

Alternatively, there is a shuttle bus that runs between the visitors centre and Hougoumont Farm (but note – only when the visitors centre is open).

There are several information boards along the way and the landscape tells its own story, so take your time to absorb it all!

Hougoumont Farm was a strategic position for Wellington’s forces and he entrusted the Coldstream Guards with the defence of the position against the French …with mixed results.  Today the farm’s outer walls bear testament to the ferocious battle that played out here. This is also outlined in several exhibits and there is also a café.

Returning to the Memorial 1815 visitor centre … there is a comprehensive series of exhibits to provide essential context for understanding the battle as well as a 3D film. Keep a look out for the French Army discussing military strategy using Lego figurines 😀

Heading outside , visit the Rotunda containing a full panorama of the battle and then climb the 226 steps of the Lion’s Mound (Butte du Lion). The view is spectacular!

And finally…. Napoleon did not surrender here (sorry ABBA) …he fled back to Paris and was later captured by the British navy (supposedly trying to escape to America) and imprisoned on St Helena island.

It is truly strange how the word – Waterloo – has come to mean both an epic downfall (Napoleon) and a euphoric celebration of love (ABBA). The legacy of empires and the joy of disco exist side by side, offering a reminder that history is as much about transformation as it is about remembrance.

But ABBA did have nicer tunes. 😊

For more information, have a look at the Visitor’s Guide to Waterloo

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