Seven nights, three ecosystems, one Costa Rican state of mind.

There’s a phrase you’ll hear within minutes of arriving in Costa Rica, and you’ll keep hearing it until the moment you leave: Pura Vida.

Literally, “pure life.”

In practice, it’s a greeting, a farewell, an answer to “how are you,” and a whole philosophy rolled into two words — a shorthand for slowing down, being grateful, and trusting that things will work out. Nowhere does that philosophy make more sense than on a route that takes you from a smoking volcano to a river thick with wildlife to a forest suspended in cloud, all in the space of a week.

Costa Rica was our second country on our Central American tour which started in Panama City and ironically we weren’t meant to spend 7 nights in the country – it was only meant to be 4 but because of some protest action that shut the Pan American Highway, our tour operator changed our tour to fly from Panama City to San José (capital of Costa Rica) and replaced the 2 nights we would have stayed on the Panama Caribbean coast with 2 nights in La Fortuna.

It worked out quite fortuitous for us in the end too!

This was our new route: a one night stop in San José, two nights in La Fortuna, two nights in Sarapiquí, and two nights in the Monteverde Cloud Forest.

Three ecosystems, one small country, and a very good argument for why Costa Rica keeps topping the list of places people fall in love with.

San José: the warm-up

Most itineraries treat San José as a place to pass through, and honestly, they are probably right — a day, or even just an afternoon here, is enough. Costa Rica’s capital isn’t a looker in the way its coastlines and cloud forests are, but it has some gems like the Teatro Nacional. Worth a visit to see it’s gold-leafed foyer.

La Fortuna: fire and water

The drive out of San José climbs, then drops, and somewhere around the shores of Lake Arenal, Volcan Arenal appears. It is a near perfect cone that dominates the skyline of the little town built in its shadow. La Fortuna owes its existence to that volcano: it erupted violently in 1968, buried three villages, and then spent the next four decades as one of the most active (and most watched) volcanoes on Earth, its lava glow visible from town most nights until it fell dormant in 2010.

We spend 2 nights here – so had a full day to do exploring. There is loads to do – hot springs, ziplining, river trips, hiking….we opted for a river float in the morning, came back to La Fortuna for a lovely lunch and then took a taxi to the La Fortuna waterfall, a 70-metre curtain dropping into a swimmable pool. It’s worth the 500-odd steps down (but decidedly, less fun coming back up!).  Good news is that they have a café at the top!

We walked back from the waterfalls to the town of La Fortuna – which was about 45 min to 1 hour.

Sarapiquí: into the rainforest

From La Fortuna, we moved on to Sarapiqui: a thick, humid, genuine rainforest and one of the most biodiverse pockets of an already extraordinary country.

There are series of very long suspended or hanging bridges that link the sides of the forest.

Howler monkeys, tropical frogs, a multitude of birdlike and seemingly exploding trees.

We did day and night walks in the forest – totally amazing experience.

Monteverde: life above the clouds

The final leg of our time in Costa Rica was a cloud forest, quite literally living inside the clouds, where mist drifts through the canopy most afternoons.

The Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve and the neighbouring Santa Elena Reserve offer a different perspective yet again. This is quetzal territory, and while sightings are never guaranteed but it is worth seeing this impossibly beautiful bird, even if its too fast for your camera!

When to go, and what to pack

Costa Rica’s dry season (roughly December to April) is the classic time to visit: the skies are clearer, the roads easier and there are better odds on wildlife visibility BUT it is also the busiest and most expensive time.

The “green season” from May to November brings more rain (usually short, dramatic afternoon downpours rather than all-day washouts), fewer crowds, and the rainforest and cloud forest that are, arguably, even more themselves when they’re wet.

Whichever season you choose, pack for both: proper rain gear, quick-dry clothing, sturdy hiking shoes, and swimwear for the hot springs.

It’s also worth knowing, as a small point of pride for the country: Costa Rica generates close to 99% of its electricity from renewable sources and protects roughly a quarter of its land as national park or reserve.  It’s a country that has spent decades deciding that its rainforests are worth more standing than cleared, and you feel that decision everywhere you go.

What Pura Vida actually means

By the time you’re on the road out of Monteverde, “Pura Vida” stops sounding like a tourist phrase and starts making a different kind of sense.

It’s not really about hot springs or hanging bridges, or even the quetzal you may or may not spot.

It’s the sloth that isn’t in a hurry, the coffee that’s savoured rather than gulped, the shrug-and-smile answer to a delay or a missed sighting.

Seven nights with glimpses of volcanoes, rainforests and cloud forests are an interlude into the mindset — and its more than enough to want to bring it home with you.

Next stop for us was Nicaragua.

Thinking about a trip to Costa Rica? Get in touch with Routes of Happiness travel consultancy to help you build it!

Opinions expressed are our own based on personal experience

All images used are sourced from Unsplash, iStock or are personal photographs. The writing is original, so please don’t copy any of these (photos or writing) without permission!

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